Gorilla trekking to open savannas, Uganda reveals just how much this country has to offer.
There’s something incredibly special about exploring a new country by road, with everything you need packed into your vehicle and the freedom to stop wherever the scenery demands. Uganda had long been on our list, and in December 2024 we finally made it happen. Our plan was simple, a full overlanding loop from Entebbe, taking in the country’s best national parks, mountain scenery, primate experiences, and of course, plenty of time on the open road.
Getting Started: Touchdown in Entebbe
We flew into Entebbe, where our Toyota Land Cruiser ‘Troopy’ was waiting for us. Supplied by one of our local partners and fully kitted out for overlanding with a rooftop tent, fridge, and all the camping equipment we could possibly need, it was thrilling to be back behind the wheel of a Land Cruiser with that familiar lofty view out of the windscreen overlooking the bull bar up front.
Before heading into the wild, we spent our first night in Kampala to settle in and stock up on supplies. Having a some time here gave us a moment to experience the culture and local food in the capital city and importantly do some final planning, set up a local sim card and to make sure we had everything we needed for the days ahead.
Hitting the Road: The Journey North
Our route was planned out in advance since we were on a generous but set schedule. From Kampala, we headed east to Jinja, the adventure capital of Uganda, where the Nile begins its long journey north. Watching the sunset over the river with camp set up was the perfect start to our overlanding adventure.
From Jinja, we turned north toward Kipedo Valley National Park via Sipi Falls and Moroto, one of the most remote and beautiful corners of Africa. The journey there was an adventure in itself. Some long, bumpy roads, framed by incredible scenery of the surrounding rolling rolling hills and villages where children waved as we passed. Kipedo was worth every kilometre. Wide open savannas, big skies, and not another vehicle in sight. It reminded us of why we love overlanding so much that sense of seclusion and being immersed in a truly wild place. It also reminded us of the Serengeti and Masai Mara, except Kipedo had one huge advantage, no crowds. We Saw just a handful of other vehicles during our game drives within the park, so when we did spot wildlife we usually had it all to ourselves, a theme that would carry throughout this trip.
Wildlife Encounters to Remember
From Kipedo, we made our way to Murchison Falls National Park, where the mighty Nile squeezes through a narrow gorge before crashing down in a thunderous waterfall. As amazing as the falls are, the park’s name might mislead you into thinking they are the only draw. However, Murchison Falls is the largest national park in Uganda and boasts some stunning game drive routes that are very accessible. Elephants, giraffes, lions, buffalo, leopards, antelope and stunning birdlife can all be spotted here. We came across a beautiful pair of grey-crowned cranes, Uganda’s national bird that even features on the flag.
Our route then took us south to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, home to Uganda’s only rhinos, where we tracked these endangered creatures on foot in the presence of an expert guide. A very special and humbling experience made all the more special by the opportunity to camp in the grounds and wake up to the sight of white rhinos just meters away from our roof tent.
Into the Forests: Chimpanzees and Gorillas
Next came Kibale National Park, famous for its chimpanzee trekking. Standing just meters from a huge troop as they groomed, played, and called through the forest was unforgettable. There’s an energy to these encounters that no photo can capture. The deep panting, barking, and high-pitched screams of the big males as they assert their dominance echo through the forest, vibrating through the air and into your chest. As they drum on the exposed buttress roots of the huge Muhimbi trees, the forest itself seems to tremble.
We treated ourselves and stayed at a very special nearby lodge, high in the hills overlooking the forest. The clever layout of the handful of private rooms gave a real feeling of seclusion as birds frequented our front porch and in the evening we heard the calls of the chimpanzees in the forest below, a truly magical feeling while soaking up the sunset.
A Special Sighting
From there, we continued to Queen Elizabeth National Park, a stunning mix of savanna, lakes, and forest. The park itself was alive with wildlife, but it was one particular sighting that we’ll never forget, a huge male leopard, resting on a termite mound, completely unbothered by our presence. As we were nearing the end of our first day in the park, after spotting large elephant herds, buffalo and antelopes, we came across a local guide who told us he had just had a fleeting glimpse of a leopard before it disappeared into the bush. We had around 2 hours before the park gates closed but we were determined to find it before we left. After driving the surrounding sandy tracks for around 20 minutes I spotted a fluffy tail just bobbing above the long grasses. Admittedly I’m not normally great with wildlife spotting as Lorena will tell you so I was particularly happy with this spot.
Before perching himself upon the termite mound we tracked him as he walked parallel to the road, around 100 meters from us. He then turned towards our direction and I made a comment to Lorena, “How awesome would it be if he climbed that termite mound”. To my amazement that’s exactly what he did, just around 20m from the car, facing in our direction, making it an incredible photo opportunity for Lorena with her zoom lens ready to go. We spent over an hour with him as he sat on the mound, lazing and surveying the local savanna from his raised vantage point. Later, he spotted a warthog behind our car and began to stalking it using the long grasses as cover. The warthog made an escape before he could give chase but he remained very close and we followed him at a respectable distance before sadly we had to head for the gate. If we could have, we would have spent hours more just appreciating this magnificent animal. We’ve been lucky enough to have countless big cat encounters. Leopards are notoriously difficult to find and when you do, often its a brief sighting before these elusive creatures disappear into the bush. Knowing this, it made this experience one of our best big cat moments ever.
Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda 2024
Tree Climbing Lions
We continued south toward the Ishasha sector, famous for its lions with a special talent. Once again, the wildlife was incredible. Large herds of elephants, zebra, and antelope, along with countless bird species. One particularly memorable moment came at sunrise, sitting on a small cliff overlooking a scene that felt almost stereotypical of an east African savanna: golden light breaking over acacia dotted plains as a herd of elephants moved slowly across the horizon.
Our main goal in Ishasha, however, was to find the region’s most famous residents. The lions known for their rare tree climbing behaviour. We’re used to seeing leopards resting on branches, but seeing a lion draped across a tree limb is something altogether different. With a few helpful tips from local guides along the way, we eventually spotted a pair in the distance, perfectly camouflaged on the thick branches of a huge fig tree. We couldn’t get too close, out of respect for the park’s set tracks, so the photo opportunities were limited, but watching that male and female pair lounging in the trees, completely at ease, was a truly special moment.
A Bucket List Moment
Then came of the most anticipated moments of our Uganda trip. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, home of the mountain gorillas. En route we stopped at a nearby pangolin sanctuary that we had previously made contact with, camping in their grounds for the night and taking a tour of the facilities before meeting two of the rescued pangolins they were currently rehabilitating after being seized from poachers. It’s very difficult to spot these creatures in the wild and being the most trafficked animal in the world, it is become even more rare to do so. Seeing them up close and see the amazing work the charity does was a privilege.
We reached the small town of Buhoma the next day. There are several starting points in the Bwindi region for gorilla trekking, but we chose Buhoma for its reputation and convenience along our route. After an early morning briefing with local rangers and conservationists, we set off in a small group, each carrying a packed lunch and a few litres of water, prepared for up to six hours of hiking through dense jungle.
Incredibly, we had barely left the hillside villages when our lead guide received word that the trackers had located the family we were looking for nearby. Within minutes, we were deep in the forest, surrounded by the thick green of vines and ferns. Suddenly, there they were, a family of six gorillas. A massive silverback sat quietly feeding, flanked by two blackback males, one female, and two juveniles playing in the undergrowth. An unusual group makeup, our guides explained, as the family had sadly lost the mother of one of the youngsters earlier that year. Thankfully it was at least old enough to survive and it seemed one of the black backs had taken responsibility as guardian, keeping it close by at all times.
Watching them move, feed, and interact was one of those moments that stays with you forever. There’s something about meeting their gaze and seeing their human like expressions and gestures that is hard to put into words. For me, it was one of the most powerful and intimate wildlife experiences I’ve ever had. Truly a once in a lifetime encounter.
The Journey Back East
Our loop continued through Lake Mburo National Park, where we enjoyed a peaceful final safari among zebra, impala, and hippo before ending our journey at Mabamba Swamp. This vast wetland on the edge of Lake Victoria is famous for the shoebill, one of Africa’s most unusual looking birds and one that had been high on our bucket list for a while.
We set out in a traditional wooden canoe, gliding quietly through narrow channels lined with lilies and long reeds. The stillness of the swamp was incredible, broken only by the calls of kingfishers and countless other bird species. As the sun began to dip, our guide suddenly pointed ahead a large male shoebill stood among the reeds. We approached in silence, just in time to see him regurgitate water after a successful catch. Moments later, he spread his enormous wings and lifted off in a short flight before landing on the other side of our canoe, giving us an even better view.
Mabamba Swamp, Uganda 2024
Watching this prehistoric looking bird up close was unforgettable, a perfect finale to our Ugandan adventure. The sunset cruise back to camp, passing local fisherman drawing in their days catch was the perfect way to top of yet another bucket list moment.
By the time we rolled back into Entebbe in our dusty Land Cruiser, we felt privileged to have seen so much of one of Africa’s most diverse and rewarding countries.
The Overlanding Experience in Uganda
Uganda offers a different kind of challenge for overlanders. Compared to most corners of southern African where we have done most of our overlanding, Uganda takes a bit more planning. We are accustomed to longer, open ended trips where we usually only plan a couple of days ahead. In Uganda, amenities like well stocked supermarkets are less common, so it’s worth doing a big shop in Kampala before heading out. Campsites also tend to be more spread out and roads can be more challenging. As we were on a limited timeframe, the fact that we had booked accommodation and planned our stops in advance turned out to be an excellent decision that made the experience much more comfortable and enjoyable.
That said, once you’re on the road, the rewards are endless. From dense rainforests and misty mountains to vast savannas and volcanic lakes, Uganda’s landscapes change constantly. The drives themselves, as is always the goal with overlanding, are just as memorable as the wildlife encounters. Winding through tea plantations, mountain escarpments, local villages and red dirt roads are a huge part of the reason why overlanding, for us, is still the best way to see Africa. Everywhere we went, we were greeted with smiles and curiosity. People waved, kids laughed, and there was always a sense of genuine warmth and welcome.
Why Uganda Belongs on Every Overlander’s List
Uganda is still a bit of a hidden gem for overlanders and adventure travellers. It offers everything its more famous neighbours like Kenya and Tanzania have; incredible wildlife, dramatic scenery, and rich culture, but with far fewer crowds. Add to that the chance to see mountain gorillas, chimpanzees, and the iconic shoebill, and you have one of the most diverse destinations in Africa.
Yes, it requires a little more preparation, but that’s part of the charm. For those who love the open road, the sense of freedom, and the joy of discovering something new every day, Uganda is a dream come true.
Plan Your Own Uganda Adventure with Drive Africa
At Drive Africa, we help travellers make the most of their self-drive and overlanding adventures across the continent. Whether you’re looking to explore Uganda’s primate forests, Namibia’s deserts, or Botswana’s wild floodplains, we can help you plan your route, choose the right 4×4, and get out there to experience Africa your way.
